International Textiles Collection 1907-1943

Summary
Contents
Names/subjects
Using these materials
Please note that some historical materials may contain harmful content and/or descriptions. Learn how we’re addressing it.
Size
4 linear feet (8 boxes)
Call number
MC 00585
Access to materials

Collection is open for research; access requires at least 48 hours advance notice. Because of the nature of certain archival formats, including digital and audio-visual materials, access will require additional advanced notice. Copies of digital files may be provided for use in the SCRC Reading Room upon request.

The International Textiles Collection contains domestic and foreign textile samples from the United States, England, France, and Switzerland dating from about 1907 to 1943. Among the samples are broadcloth, cottonade, crepe, dobby, gingham, jacquard, lace, leno, sateen, silk, tapestry, velvet, venetian, and voile. In addition to the fabric samples, the collection contains notes, notebooks, correspondence, and a news clipping, as well as both domestic and international reports on textile production, manufacturers, fabric weaving, and fabric costs. The mills, manufacturers, and locations mentioned include: Erwin Mills, Durham, North Carolina; Neuse River Mills, Raleigh, North Carolina; the Patterson Manufacturing Company, China Grove, North Carolina; Proximity Mills, Greensboro, North Carolina; Taftville, Connecticut; and Eagle and Phenix Mills, Columbus, Georgia.

Biographical/historical note

Thomas Nelson, the first dean of North Carolina State University's School of Textiles (now College of Textiles) may be the creator of this collection, though provenance cannot be verified. Nelson was an internationally-known textile technologist and educator. Born in Preston, England in 1872, he came to the United States to work in mills in Connecticut, Massachusetts, and Virginia, and taught at the Lowell Textile Institute in Lowell, Massachusetts before joining the faculty at North Carolina Agricultural and Mechanical College in 1901. Nelson became head of the textile department in 1906 and dean of the School of Textiles in 1925. He retired as dean in 1943, but continued to serve as professor on the faculty until 1949. The School of Textiles building was formally named Nelson Hall in honor of Thomas Nelson in 1954.

Scope/content

The International Textiles Collection contains domestic and foreign textile samples from the United States, England, France, and Switzerland dating from about 1907 to 1943. Among the samples are broadcloth, cottonade, crepe, dobby, gingham, jacquard, lace, leno, sateen, silk, tapestry, velvet, venetian, and voile. In addition to the fabric samples, the collection contains notes, notebooks, correspondence, and a news clipping, as well as both domestic and international reports on textile production, manufacturers, fabric weaving, and fabric costs. The mills, manufacturers, and locations mentioned include: Erwin Mills, Durham, North Carolina; Neuse River Mills, Raleigh, North Carolina; the Patterson Manufacturing Company, China Grove, North Carolina; Proximity Mills, Greensboro, North Carolina; Taftville, Connecticut; and Eagle and Phenix Mills, Columbus, Georgia.

Custodial history

This collection was found in the basement of North Carolina State University's Nelson Hall when renovation of the building took place in 1994. The collection was then transferred to NC State University Libraries' University Archives. In September 1995, the materials were transferred from the University Archives to the Visual Arts Center, Division of Student Affairs (now the Gregg Museum of Art and Design). In February 2016, NC State University Libraries' Special Collections received the materials as a transfer from the Gregg Museum.

It is believed that Thomas Nelson may be the creator of this collection based on the evidential content of the materials. The collection contains multiple correspondence either to or from Nelson, as well as a notebook bearing his name. Nelson also worked as an agent for several government agencies, and the collection contains multiple fabric samples pinned to government agency letterheads. Among those agencies represented are the Treasury Department's Bureau for the Analysis of Textile Fabrics Appraiser’s Office, and the US Tariff Commission. There is also stationery (envelopes and letterhead) that contain Thomas Nelson's name and his address at North Carolina State University's School of Textiles. In addition, the date range of the materials, 1907 to 1943, match the period of Nelson's life in which he was most active in his career. This encompasses his time working as a consultant for mills in North Carolina and elsewhere, and there are manuscript notes taken from multiple mills pertaining to productivity and weaving activities that may have been a result of his consultations.

Arrangement

This collection is arranged alphabetically.

The original alphabetical order of the creator was used when discernable. The materials were originally stored in wooden Macey Transfer Cases containing spine labels listing contents. The contents were removed from the original transfer cases by Gregg Museum staff and bagged together. The relationship was kept by assigning each case a number, writing that number on the inside of the case, and placing a slip of paper with the number into each bag of materials. Upon inspection, several bag numbers and case numbers did not clearly match, one bag was missing a number slip, and one box was not numbered. The bag contents were matched to what was believed to be their original transfer case based on the original folder titles and each case's spine label.

The processor arranged the cases alphabetically by spine label title and assigned sequential numbers. Some contents were loose within the bags, but most were foldered and labeled. To maintain original order and keep association of contents with their original transfer case, the new folder titles consist of the derived sequential transfer case number, the creator's case title and, when present, the creator's original folder labels.

Use of these materials

The nature of the NC State University Libraries' Special Collections means that copyright or other information about restrictions may be difficult or even impossible to determine despite reasonable efforts. The NC State University Libraries claims only physical ownership of most Special Collections materials.

The materials from our collections are made available for use in research, teaching, and private study, pursuant to U.S. Copyright law. The user must assume full responsibility for any use of the materials, including but not limited to, infringement of copyright and publication rights of reproduced materials. Any materials used for academic research or otherwise should be fully credited with the source.

This collection may contain materials with sensitive or confidential information that is protected under federal or state right to privacy laws and regulations. Researchers are advised that the disclosure of certain information pertaining to identifiable living individuals represented in this collection without the consent of those individuals may have legal ramifications (e.g., a cause of action under common law for invasion of privacy may arise if facts concerning an individual's private life are published that would be deemed highly offensive to a reasonable person) for which North Carolina State University assumes no responsibility.

Preferred Citation

[Identification of item], International Textiles Collection, MC 00585, Special Collections Research Center, North Carolina State University Libraries, Raleigh, NC

Related material

Source of acquisition

Transfer from the Gregg Museum of Art and Design, 2016 (Accession 2016.0052).

Processing information

Processed by: Jessica Serrao, 2017 March; machine-readable finding aid created by: Jessica Serrao, 2017 March.

Please note that some historical materials may contain harmful content and/or descriptions. Learn how we’re addressing it.
Photocopies of original transfer cases undated
Box 1, Folder 1
Transfer Case 1 Domestic Broadcloth: Broadcloth fabric samples (1 of 4) 1928-1931, undated (2015.0052)
Box 1, Folder 2
Transfer Case 1 Domestic Broadcloth: Broadcloth fabric samples (2 of 4) 1928-1930, undated
Box 1, Folder 3
Transfer Case 1 Domestic Broadcloth: Broadcloth fabric samples (3 of 4) 1929-1930, undated
Box 1, Folder 4
Transfer Case 1 Domestic Broadcloth: Broadcloth fabric samples (4 of 4) 1930, undated
Box 1, Folder 5
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: Cost cards with sample fabrics undated
Box 1, Folder 6
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: Equipment, Automatic Bartlett Let-Off undated
Box 2, Folder 1
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: Nelson, Thomas notes and correspondence on mills and equipment 1907-1909, undated
Box 2, Folder 2
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: News clipping "Unfinished Print Cloth Losses by U.S. Mills Cited" 1935 May 16
Box 2, Folder 3
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: Patterson Manufacturing Company mill reports, China Grove, NC 1927
Box 2, Folder 4
Transfer Case 2 Domestic Fabrics: Unidentified fabric samples and notes 1926-1927, undated
Box 2, Folder 5
Transfer Case 3 English Fabrics: Cost cards with sample fabrics (1 of 4) 1914-1920
Box 2, Folder 6
Transfer Case 3 English Fabrics: Cost cards with sample fabrics (2 of 4) 1914-1920
Box 2, Folder 7
Transfer Case 3 English Fabrics: Cost cards with sample fabrics (3 of 4) 1914-1920
Box 2, Folder 8
Transfer Case 3 English Fabrics: Cost cards with sample fabrics (4 of 4) 1914-1920
Box 2, Folder 9
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Ginghams and plaids 1921-1930, undated
Box 2, Folder 10
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Jacquard colored and embossed 1918-1937, undated
Box 2, Folder 11
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Jacquard colored cravat (English and French) undated
Box 2, Folder 12
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Jacquard shirts white and colored 1922-1930, undated
Box 3, Folder 1
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Nelson, Ernest notebook of textile notes undated
Box 3, Folder 2
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Nelson, Ernest notebook of warp yarns notes undated
Box 3, Folder 3
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Nelson, Thomas notebook of cottonade fabric samples and notes undated
Box 3, Folder 4
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Notebook of fabric samples and notes on domestic mills circa 1910-1929
Box 3, Folder 5
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Textile notes undated
Box 3, Folder 6
Transfer Case 4 English Fabrics (2): Unidentified fabric samples undated
Box 3, Folder 7
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Bleached cotton cloth 1923
Box 3, Folder 8
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Leno dobby colored and printed including Russian cord undated
Box 3, Folder 9
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Leno dobby white undated
Box 3, Folder 10
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Leno jacquard colored and printed undated
Box 3, Folder 11
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Leno jacquard white undated
Box 3, Folder 12
Transfer Case 5 English Fabrics (3): Linings mohair and alpaca undated
Box 3, Folder 13
Transfer Case 6 English Fabrics (5): Sateen warp 1928, undated
Box 4, Folder 1
Transfer Case 6 English Fabrics (5): Shirtings colored plain undated
Box 4, Folder 2
Transfer Case 6 English Fabrics (5): Shirtings dobby colored undated
Box 4, Folder 3
Transfer Case 6 English Fabrics (5): Shirtings dobby colored fancy 1923, undated
Box 4, Folder 4
Transfer Case 6 English Fabrics (5): Shirtings white and woven tuck 1930, undated
Box 4, Folder 5
Transfer Case 7 English Fabrics (6): Velvets printed undated
Box 4, Folder 6
Transfer Case 7 English Fabrics (6): Venetians colored (1 of 2) 1916-1923, undated
Box 4, Folder 7
Transfer Case 7 English Fabrics (6): Venetians colored (2 of 2) 1916-1918
Box 4, Folder 8
Transfer Case 7 English Fabrics (6): Venetians grey undated
Box 5, Folder 1
Transfer Case 8 English Fabrics (7): Lines of samples, colored check undated
Box 5, Folder 2
Transfer Case 8 English Fabrics (7): Lines of samples, fabrics undated
Box 5, Folder 3
Transfer Case 8 English Fabrics (7): Shirtings from Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. (1 of 2) 1928
Box 5, Folder 4
Transfer Case 8 English Fabrics (7): Shirtings from Horrockses, Crewdson & Co. (2 of 2) 1928
Box 5, Folder 5
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Crepes 1923
Box 6, Folder 1
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Crepes white and colors 1934-1935, undated
Box 6, Folder 2
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Figured double plain 1935, undated
Box 6, Folder 3
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Leno colored dobby including Russian cord 1923
Box 6, Folder 4
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Loop fabric undated
Box 6, Folder 5
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Ratine fancy and plain 1932, undated
Box 6, Folder 6
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Shirtings colored fancy 1922-1923, undated
Box 6, Folder 7
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Unidentified fabric samples (1 of 2) 1934
Box 6, Folder 8
Transfer Case 9 French Fabrics: Unidentified fabric samples (2 of 2) 1935
Box 6, Folder 9
Transfer Case 10 French Fabrics: "Calais Important Lace Center" Special Bulletin No. 624 1932
Box 6, Folder 10
Transfer Case 10 French Fabrics: Coutil 1928, undated
Box 6, Folder 11
Transfer Case 10 French Fabrics: Leno 1923
Box 6, Folder 12
Transfer Case 10 French Fabrics: Swivel colored 1930, undated
Box 6, Folder 13
Transfer Case 10 French Fabrics: Voile colored undated
Box 6, Folder 14
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: Custom House Imports Woolen and Worsted Overcoating, etc. 1922
Box 6, Folder 15
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: "Imitation or Mock Leno Stripes" by Cromarty, and unidentified fabric samples 1922-1930, undated
Box 7, Folder 1
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: Notes and unidentified fabric samples undated
Box 7, Folder 2
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: Rodier samples 1929
Box 7, Folder 3
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: Silk samples undated
Box 7, Folder 4
Transfer Case 11 Style Suggestions from Commission Houses with Costs: Tests, work for mills 1922, undated
Box 7, Folder 5
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Dotted Swiss 1940, undated
Box 7, Folder 6
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Lining and batiste crepes 1923, undated
Box 7, Folder 7
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Narrow fabrics made on Swiss Saurer Loom and equipment documents undated
Box 7, Folder 8
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Swivel dotted Swiss 1918-1943
Box 7, Folder 9
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Transparent organdy 1923, undated
Box 7, Folder 10
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Voile 1930
Box 7, Folder 11
Transfer Case 12 Switzerland Fabrics: Voiles, balloon cloth, sateen 1923
Box 7, Folder 12
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Correspondence between Thomas Nelson and Victor Belanger with yarn samples 1912 July
Box 8, Folder 1
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: English yarn sample from Thomas Oliver & Sons, Ltd. 1934
Box 8, Folder 2
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Stainless steel parts in box undated
Box 8, Folder 3
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Tapestry samples undated
Box 8, Folder 4
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Unidentified fabric sample undated
Box 8, Folder 5
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Yarn sample in box undated
Box 8, Folder 6
Transfer Case 13 Tapestries: Yarn samples on spools 1927, undated
Box 8, Folder 7
Please note that some historical materials may contain harmful content and/or descriptions. Learn how we’re addressing it.

Access to the collection

Collection is open for research; access requires at least 48 hours advance notice. Because of the nature of certain archival formats, including digital and audio-visual materials, access will require additional advanced notice. Copies of digital files may be provided for use in the SCRC Reading Room upon request.

For more information contact us via mail, phone, or our web form.

Mailing address:
Special Collections Research Center
Box 7111
Raleigh, NC, 27695-7111

Phone: (919) 515-2273

Preferred Citation

[Identification of item], International Textiles Collection, MC 00585, Special Collections Research Center, North Carolina State University Libraries, Raleigh, NC

Use of these materials

The nature of the NC State University Libraries' Special Collections means that copyright or other information about restrictions may be difficult or even impossible to determine despite reasonable efforts. The NC State University Libraries claims only physical ownership of most Special Collections materials.

The materials from our collections are made available for use in research, teaching, and private study, pursuant to U.S. Copyright law. The user must assume full responsibility for any use of the materials, including but not limited to, infringement of copyright and publication rights of reproduced materials. Any materials used for academic research or otherwise should be fully credited with the source.

This collection may contain materials with sensitive or confidential information that is protected under federal or state right to privacy laws and regulations. Researchers are advised that the disclosure of certain information pertaining to identifiable living individuals represented in this collection without the consent of those individuals may have legal ramifications (e.g., a cause of action under common law for invasion of privacy may arise if facts concerning an individual's private life are published that would be deemed highly offensive to a reasonable person) for which North Carolina State University assumes no responsibility.